What to Wear With an Overcoat: Layers, Trousers, Shoes and Accessories

Wear an overcoat over layers that match its formality: tailoring or fine knitwear underneath, neutral or contrasting trousers, leather shoes or boots, and a scarf that adds contrast. The coat should close comfortably over the layer you are really wearing, cover the hem of any jacket beneath it, and sit in the same register as the rest of the outfit. Colour is easy: camel, navy and charcoal go with almost everything.

These are the points on which most styling guides agree, written for any wearer and any coat. They work as well with a vintage piece as a new one. If you are choosing among the overcoats in the Vestiaire, start by deciding whether you want the coat to dress an outfit up or down.

What should you wear under an overcoat?

Whatever you plan to wear most. For a formal or work outfit, that is a suit or tailored jacket; an overcoat is the natural thing to wear over one in cold weather. For smart casual, a fine-gauge knit or a turtleneck works well, and a cardigan over a lightweight roll neck is a classic combination. Try the coat on over the real thing: it should close without the buttons pulling, and the shoulders need to be a little roomier than they would be on a jacket to allow for the layers. Our guide to how an overcoat should fit covers the checks, and the guide to oversized overcoats covers a roomier cut.

Which trousers work with an overcoat?

For tailoring, wool trousers in a neutral such as grey or khaki, or the trousers of the suit. For smart casual, dark denim, chinos or corduroy all work. A useful rule is contrast: dark trousers under a light coat, lighter trousers under a dark one. Keep the proportions tidy so the coat remains the largest element.

Which shoes and boots?

Polished leather shoes with tailoring; leather loafers or ankle boots for business casual; Chelsea or chukka boots with dark denim; clean, low-profile leather sneakers for a relaxed weekend. A pairing that is easy to get right is tan or brown leather with navy, and brown shoes with a tan coat.

Scarves, gloves and hats

• Scarf. An overcoat leaves the upper chest exposed, so a scarf earns its place. Choose wool or cashmere. Avoid a solid scarf on a solid coat; a patterned coat suits a patterned scarf as long as the scale of the patterns differs, and a coloured scarf adds interest against grey.
• Gloves. Leather gloves are the smart choice, lined with wool or cashmere on cold days. Colours that contrast with the coat, such as dark brown, burgundy or grey, tend to look better than black.
• Hats. A flat cap or newsboy cap suits a casual coat, a brimmed hat a tailored one, and a neutral wool beanie any cold day. Earmuffs are the alternative if you dislike hat hair.

Which colours go with which overcoat?

Camel, navy and charcoal are the safest. A camel coat works over a navy or grey suit and just as well over jeans and knitwear, and tan goes with almost any winter colour. As a rule the darkest colours sit on the outside with lighter ones underneath, although a light coat over dark layers can look striking if it is done deliberately. Charcoal and dark navy are the easiest first coats. Our guide to camel hair against camel colour helps you read what you are buying.

Dress it up or down?

The coat should match the formality of everything else. A dark Chesterfield covers business and evening wear; a polo coat is less formal but smart enough over a suit; a short, light coat or one with patch pockets and toggles reads casual. Single-breasted coats are easier to wear casually than double-breasted ones, and a belted style can go either way depending on the cloth. The styles are explained in our guide to the types of overcoat.

How long should the coat be with the outfit?

It should at least cover the hem of any jacket beneath it, and the sleeves should cover the cuffs of your shirt and jacket. A classic overcoat usually ends around the knee, a shorter one around the hip, and longer, roomier coats can run past the knee when they are cut that way on purpose. If you are shorter, a hem a little higher on the thigh keeps the proportions in balance.

Four outfits to start from

• Work. A dark suit, a crisp shirt, polished leather shoes, a knee-length coat in charcoal or navy and a plain wool scarf.
• Smart casual. A fine knit or turtleneck, neutral wool trousers, leather boots, a camel coat and leather gloves.
• Weekend. A chunky knit, dark denim, clean leather sneakers or boots, a relaxed coat and a beanie or flat cap.
• Evening. A dark suit or evening wear, polished black shoes and a dark classic overcoat, with a white or pale scarf as the traditional finish.