One sweater. More for a coat.
A climate so extreme it makes
the fibre worth having.
Cashmere is the fine undercoat of a specific goat — not sheared, but combed once a year, by hand.
Browse cashmere pieces →the Empress Joséphine.
The fibre was known as pashm in Persian — meaning simply wool — and the word pashmina derives from it. For centuries it remained local craft: the warmth of a specific climate and a specific goat, understood by communities in Kashmir, Ladakh, Nepal, and Mongolia who lived with it.
By the late 18th century, cashmere shawls were being exported to France and Britain in commercial quantities. In Paris they became one of the most sought-after luxury objects of the Napoleonic era — the Empress Joséphine is documented to have owned them in significant number. A single Kashmir shawl could cost more than a horse carriage. The fibre had crossed a continent.
By the mid-19th century, European mills — in France and Scotland — began spinning imported cashmere fibre locally. The word cashmere decoupled from its geography and came to name a quality rather than only a place. That distinction — between where the fibre originates and where it is processed — remains important to understand today.
at altitude. The undercoat
is how it does that.
The Capra hircus — the cashmere or Kashmir goat — is not a single breed. It is a category: any goat producing sufficient quantity and quality of fine undercoat to be commercially usable as cashmere.
The animal grows two coats. The outer coat is coarse guard hair — protective, commercially useless for fine textiles. Beneath it, developed as days shorten and temperatures fall, is the undercoat: the cashmere. This is what the goat builds to survive winters that can reach −40°C. The harsher the climate, the finer and denser the undercoat it develops. Cold is not incidental to cashmere quality — it is what creates it.
In spring, when temperatures begin to rise, the undercoat releases naturally. Herders comb it out by hand, working at the neck and belly where the longest, most compact fibres concentrate. One Hircus goat yields between approximately 150 and 250 grams of raw undercoat per year. Three to four goats' annual production goes into one sweater.
Crossbreeding Hircus goats with larger breeds to increase yield has consistently resulted in coarser, shorter fibres of less value. The animal has been shaped by millennia of climate. That cannot be improved upon by accelerating production.
is measured in microns.
The effect is felt immediately.
The finest, longest fibres. At approximately 14 microns, a Grade A fibre is far finer than a human hair. Longer fibres interlock more securely in the yarn — the garment tends to pill less readily and retain its structure over more seasons. This is the grade specified by Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, and N.Peal.
Genuine cashmere. Soft — though noticeably less so than Grade A. The slightly thicker, shorter fibres affect the yarn's cohesion: the garment is more prone to pilling and may not hold its shape through as many seasons. Not a poor choice; it has a shorter expected lifespan.
At 25–30 microns, Grade C fibres approach the range where cashmere can feel rough against sensitive skin. It is technically cashmere. It is not what the word implies. We do not carry Grade C pieces.
On ply. Ply is the number of cashmere threads twisted together to form the yarn. Two-ply is the standard for quality garments — it balances warmth, structure, and weight. The ply number and the fibre grade are independent: a high ply count does not compensate for low-grade fibre.
to the finished garment.
Each spring, herders comb the undercoat from goats by hand — working at the neck and belly where the finest fibres concentrate. Combing, not shearing, preserves fibre length.
The raw fleece contains both fine undercoat and coarse guard hair. De-hairing is the mechanical separation of these two components. It is the single most quality-determining step after the fibre itself.
The de-haired cashmere is cleaned to remove natural grease and impurities, then sorted by colour and grade. Undyed natural white cashmere accepts dye most evenly and commands the highest prices.
Fibres are drawn out and twisted into yarn. This is where Italian and Scottish mills become relevant — spinning Asian-sourced fibre into yarn of exceptional consistency.
After spinning, the yarn is either knitted or woven. Knitting preserves loft and softness. Weaving produces a flatter, denser cloth with more structure, used for travel blankets, tailored coats, and certain outerwear.
Dyeing happens at different stages. Fibre dyeing before spinning produces the deepest colour. Yarn dyeing is common and reliable. Piece dyeing — after the garment is complete — is the fastest method and can affect the handle of the finished piece.
Finishing — the final washing, brushing, and pressing of the completed garment — determines the immediate hand-feel. A well-finished piece has an even nap, consistent surface, and weight proportionate to its warmth.
to treat the fibre as
a variable.
Founded as a wool and textile trading business, Loro Piana transitioned to producing cashmere garments in the mid-20th century. Their Baby Cashmere — from young goats, fibres averaging approximately 13.5 microns — is among the finest grades available commercially. The brand does not engage in visible advertising; its standing derives from the consistency of the material.
Cucinelli started with one intention: to introduce colour into cashmere. His first collection in 1978 was six coloured cashmere pieces. The brand is headquartered in a restored 14th-century castle in Solomeo, where garments are made by hand. Select collections use natural dyes — an additional step that contributes to both the quality and the cost.
One of the oldest cashmere specialists in British retail. N.Peal specifies Grade A fibre throughout and publishes unusually direct care guidance — stating clearly that all cashmere pills initially at high-friction areas and that this is a property of the fibre, not a defect. The approach is built on longevity over novelty.
A mill rather than a consumer brand. Colombo supplies yarn and cloth to luxury houses and independent tailors. Their cashmere fabric is used by the houses above and by bespoke tailors worldwide. A coat made from Colombo cashmere cloth is a reference understood by those who make garments.
neutral in cashmere.
The climate a goat survives determines the fibre it produces. Cold, dry, high-altitude conditions produce longer, finer, denser undercoats. This is the physical mechanism of what cashmere is — not a marketing distinction.
China and Mongolia together account for the large majority of global raw cashmere production. The finest fibres are consistently associated with the highest-altitude regions, where the winters are harshest.
Home to the Wuzhumuqin and Inner Mongolian breeds. Average fibre diameter 14.3–15.8 microns. The largest share of Grade A supply globally. Winters consistently extreme.
The Zalaa Jinst White goat produces fibres averaging approximately 16 microns. Hand-combed by nomadic families. The oldest continuous cashmere production system still operating.
The Changthangi at altitudes above 4,000m produces fibres of approximately 12–13 microns — among the finest documented anywhere. When genuine, it is in a different category.
Afghan cashmere has a long history and is known for its warmth and character. Quality is variable and supply chains are complex. At its finest grade, it is well regarded.
before reading the label.
Run the fabric across the inside of your forearm or under your chin — both are sensitive skin. Fine cashmere should feel soft without any scratch or roughness. Any persistent itch suggests low grade or a blend with coarser fibres.
Hold the garment at eye level in good light and look across the surface. A light, even fuzz of approximately 1–2mm is normal. Considerably more suggests shorter fibres incorporated to create artificial initial softness.
Gently stretch a section and release it. Higher-grade cashmere with longer fibres tends to recover its shape more readily. Lower-grade or blended pieces may remain stretched or take noticeably longer to return.
Cashmere is notable for its warmth relative to its weight — not for being heavy. A quality piece should feel warm but not dense. Heavier than expected for the stated grade may indicate blending with other fibres.
The grade determines
how much and whether it stops.
Pilling occurs when surface fibres break under friction and tangle into small balls. It appears first at high-contact areas: elbows, underarms, the sides of the body. It is common to all cashmere, including Grade A. What differs between grades is rate and trajectory. Grade A cashmere typically pills lightly in the first few wears as loose surface fibres release, then stabilises. Grade C cashmere pills continuously and does not stabilise.
Pilling alone is not evidence of poor quality. A piece that pills in the first three wears and then settles is normal. A piece that pills heavily from the first wear and continues progressively is a sign of short, low-grade fibre.
- A cashmere comb — fine mesh teeth, typically beechwood — is the safest tool. Work on a clean, dry, flat garment. Comb in one direction only.
- Remove pills before washing, not after. Washing causes small pills to swell and become harder to detach cleanly.
- A fabric shaver is faster but requires care — use the lowest setting and check regularly. Cashmere fibres are delicate under blades.
- Do not use scissors, razors, or fingers to pull pills. This damages the underlying structure.
- Rest the garment between wears. Fibres that have been compressed need time to recover before the next wear.
- Avoid friction with rough or textured surfaces — structured bags, denim, heavy outerwear over cashmere will accelerate pilling at contact points.
- Regular washing in cold water helps: wet fibres detangle, settle, and release loose surface fibres before they accumulate.
- Store folded, not hanging — hanging allows the garment to rub against storage surfaces and adjacent pieces.
is straightforward.
Hand-wash in cool water with a cashmere or wool wash detergent. Submerge, swirl gently, soak for 20–30 minutes. Do not wring. Roll in a clean dry towel to remove excess water, then lay flat to dry away from heat and direct sunlight. Do not hang to dry — the weight of wet cashmere stretches the knit.
Always fold — never hang, which distorts the shoulder seams and knit over time. Store in a breathable cotton bag or a clean drawer with cedar or lavender to deter moths. Wash before long-term storage: moths are attracted to body oils and food residue on the fibre, not to the cashmere itself.
A cashmere comb used through the wearing season keeps pilling from accumulating. Work on a clean, dry, flat garment — never comb wet cashmere. For stains: blot immediately with cold water, do not rub. A garment steamer held at distance can restore drape and remove light creases without direct heat contact.
What not to do: machine wash on a warm or hot cycle; tumble dry; iron directly on the fabric; use biological or enzyme detergent; hang to dry; store in plastic. These will alter the fibre structure permanently — the garment will felt, shrink, or lose its hand-feel in ways that cannot be reversed.
"Cashmere does not announce itself. It is simply present — warmer than it should be for what it weighs, softer than anything else in the wardrobe."— Anemoia Vestiaire, material notes
Each cashmere piece we offer has been held, felt, and assessed. A well-maintained cashmere piece from fifteen or twenty years ago is often made from finer fibre than what is produced at the same price point today. That is the argument for vintage cashmere.
Browse cashmere pieces →Cashmere, available now.
Keep reading — The Good Old
Before you buy vintage cashmere.
- How do you care for vintage garments so they last?
- Can you wash vintage clothes in a regular machine?
- What makes a vintage piece worth its price?